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Now it's time to put it all back together again!

The flywheel goes on first.

I decided to put on the 9000 clutch, which requires you to replace the flywheel with a 1990-1993 C900 Turbo (1994 CV) flywheel. Check out my clutch upgrade page for more details on this swap.

When you mill the flywheel flat, you take the small step off of the flywheel. As the clutch wears down, the fingers push harder against the flywheel. So milling the flywheel flat will make the clutch seem a little more worn. This will increase the force of the fingers a little more. Every little extra grip helps!

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Here are the steps to get everything back together again:

  • Put the flywheel back on and start the bolts. Lock the flywheel with the special tool and tighten all of the bolts to spec. You may want to consider using some loctite on these bolts.

  • Before putting the clutch assembly on the flywheel, you have to put the pressure plate spacer into the new pressure plate. I used a press to push the fingers down far enough to insert the spacer ring.

  • Clean the flywheel and pressure plate with lacquer thinner. This will get all of the grease off.

  • The next thing to do is to put the clutch assembly onto the flywheel. You may get lucky and be able to put the disc and pressure plate in and then insert the slave cylinder.

  • Push the clutch shaft back into the transmission. Screw the plastic piece on, and replace the cover and spring.

  • Tighten all 6 of the pressure plate bolts. The slave cylinder bolts don't need to be on supertight. Just enough to hold it in.

  • Insert the hydralic line and bleeder into the slave cylinder and let it bleed out for a minute. I've been lucky and this was enough to bleed the clutch!

  • Bleeding the clutch can be a real PAIN IN THE ASS!
    The procedure I recommend is to buy the pressure bleeder from www.eeuroparts.com. It really helps the process.
    Once you think you got all of the air out of the system, then you want to squeeze the clutch supply hose starting from the master cylinder all the way up to the resevoir. This forces all of the air trapped in the supply line out to the resevoir. This has caught me a couple of times. Fluid will pass around the bubbles very easily making it look like the clutch is bleed, but there won't be any pressure at all!

    With a new clutch installed, the pedal should be firm within 1/2" of pressing down on the pedal and you should feel the clutch fully engage about 1/2 way down the travel of the pedal. If you have a ton of slop at the beginning of travel then you might need to replace your clutch pedal. It's a common problem!

    Almost done!

  • REMOVE THE PRESSURE PLATE SPACER RING! Have someone step on the clutch pedal, this should be enough play to get the ring out!

  • Replace the damn plastic cover. This is always a battle for me. I usually suck down a beer after getting this back on!

  • Now put the hooter valve back on. Run the hose exactly like it was before. Mine went over and under different things and would not fit properly if it was not correct.

  • If you removed it, replace the A/C Fan and plug it in.

  • Install the lower turbo pipe and connect the hooter valve to that.

  • Connect the AMM to the lower turbo pipe.

  • Install the intercooler and replace the other two turbo pipes.

      Under high boost these hoses will BLOW off. When this happens on the road, it sounds like a shotgun went off. Plus, your engine dies right away and will not run. Ask me how I know!

      Reattach the hood and go for a ride. I usually drive a tank of gas before really testing the clutch. It needs to be broken in and will slip at first. This is what happened to me. It slipped at first, but now it is solid. Be very careful to not slip the clutch too much. This will ruin the disc! If it continues to slip after a tank of gas, there is something wrong.

  • Congratulations you're done!

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