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Step 2 - Dropping the Subframe

Now you have to get the car up on jackstands. I found that I had to do this in phases before the car was high enough all around. The jack stand locations are located on the side sills of the car and have a notch in the body work.

I started by jacking up the front as high as I could go and placed the jackstands. Because the rear jacking point is much higher than the front, I have to use a piece of the 4x4 post to get the rear end up. While this isn't the safest choice, I only do this to get the jackstands in place.

Now that the rear was up, I found that the front wasn't as high as I wanted. I then jacked up the front again and raised the jackstand another notch.

Now remove the engine cover and front cover from under the car. I placed all of these small bolts in a plastic bag so I would not lose them.
Car on Jack Stands
Dropping the exhaust is the first real step and this can be your first chance to get into some DIY trouble. If you have never loosened the nuts on the turbo before, this can be your first OH SHIT encounter!

Be sure to spray the bolts with some penetrating lube before attacking them with tools.

You will experience one of three possibilities. The nut comes off cleanly, the nut comes out with the whole stud attached, or the stud breaks off.
You obviously want either one or two. If the stud breaks I would recommend you finish dropping the exhaust while your subconscious deals with the situation. You will most likely have to drill out the broken stud and rethread the hole.
Email me if this happens and you need some advice on what to do.

I ended up using a ratchet for the top and bottom nut and a wrench for the tighter spots. I also reached the bottom nut from under the car.

Before dropping the exhaust you need to disconnect the two O2 sensors. The connectors are located near the throttle body and have the standard SAAB release. I labeled the bottom section of the connector so I wouldn't screw up which was the front and rear O2 sensor. You also want to remember the routing of the wires for when you put them back. (If the engine support rig is in the way, you can loosen it up and move it out of the way and then put it back in place.)

Under the car, there are two nuts that help hold the cat to a mount. And you need to remove the subframe cross brace that goes over the exhaust.
The only thing left is to release all of the exaust hangers and drop the whole exhaust down. To prevent the whole exhaust from falling on my head, I used my two raising jacks and placed one on the rear muffler and the other near on the cat.

The exhaust hangers have a clip to hold the hanger in place. Note: Two clips in front are larger than the rest. Use a screwdrive to push the clip out, then pull the rubber hanger off. I placed the turbo nuts, and all the clips and hangers in a plastic bag.

Now carefully lower the exhaust. You do not want to lower the front faster than the front. The front has a flex pipe that doesn't like to be stretched too far. Also make sure the O2 sensor connectors do not get stuck anywhere.
Once the exhaust was on the floor I dragged it out from the back of the car. I then covered the tubo inlet and tailpipe with some tape to prevent any critters from going in.
For some reason I did not take any pictures of dropping the exhaust. I copied some pictures showing the location of the O2 plugs and turbo bolts. O2 Sensor Plugs Turbo Bolts
Taking a small rest of being under the car, the ball joints and sway bar needs to be disconnected.

The sway bar requires a thin 17mm wrench to hold the joint in place while you unbolt the nut. I did manage to do this with a regular wrench by carefully pulling back the rubber boot.

You can undue the three ball joint bolts on each side and then push the lower A-Arm down past the ball joint.

This is a good time to inspect the ball joints. The joint should be somewhat stiff and have very little side-to-side, or up-down play.

As another option, you can remove the one big bolt for the ball joint, however I have had trouble getting the big bolt back in place. There is a groove that needs to be lined up perfectly in order to get that bolt back in.
Ball Joint
Now you have to disconnect all of the lines that are attached to the subframe. Expect most of these small bolts to break off.
You will have to either drill and tap new holes or use tie-wraps when putting them back in place.

There are three bolts for the power steering line (1 facing the engine, 1 near the crankshaft pulley, 1 near the air filter). There are two snap clips for the A/C line that runs under the radiator and one bolt near the battery.
Power Steering Line 1 Power Steering Line 2
The various radiators are sitting on top of the subframe and need to be held up. The first thing to do is get the oil cooler out of the way by removing the two bolts. I put the bolts back in place so I remembered where they went!

Then remove the front grill (Three screws on top and pull it out).

Now you can use a tie-down strap and wrap it around the bottom of the radiator and over the top of the car. The strap doesn't need to be wicked tight, just tight enough to hold the stuff up.
Oil Cooler Radiator Strap Radiator Strap
The subframe is almost ready to be dropped. The final step is to remove the front torque arm, rear engine motor mount and power steering rack.

The front torque arm is a single bolt and the power steering rack has two big bolts.

The rear engine mount is difficult as access is very tight. The first step is to remove the top not on the mount. A super long extension with a swivel works very well for this.

There are 3 10mm bolts holding the mount to the subframe. Two of the bolts are somewhat accessible, however the third is very difficult. I found that these bolts are much easier to access after dropping the subframe a few inches.

To drop the subframe, I used my two raising jacks and placed one in the front and one in the rear. Once they are in place you can unscrew the four big bolts (2 in front and 2 in middle).

Now slowly drop the front subframe a few inches and check for anything clinging or connected to the subframe. I found that I had missed a line connector.
Now drop the back a few inches and the rear motor mount bolts should be easier to access. Once these are out, the entire motor mount will come out.

A careful inspection will tell you the condition of the mount and if a new one is required. Basically the top part should be stiff with very little wiggle.

Also double check that the lower A-Arms are not hanging on the ball joints. They should be below the spindle at this point.
The final check is to see that the radiators are staying in place.

If everything looks good, continue dropping the subframe a few inches at a time front to back. Eventually it will be fully lowered.
I then took grabbed both jacks and pulled the subframe out from under the car!
Rear Engine Mount Dropping the subframe Subframe Removed

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