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STEP 5: Connect and test the XM receiver (power, antenna, modulator, and controls)

I rate the difficulty of this step as easy. First, let's connect the FM modulator to the radio's head unit. If you look at the modulator, you can see the unit has a socket for in incoming antenna. Since this socket is for an older antenna connector, you need to use the adapter cable to go from the car's COAX-style connector to the modulator.

FM Modulator. The cable out of the box goes into the head unit.

Connect the car's antenna cable to the adapter cable and then plug the adapter into the FM modulator box. I found that the car's antenna cable did not clip into the adapter completely, so I used needle-nosed pliers to bend the car's antenna connector enough to make it hold tight in the adapter and also used electrical tape to help hold the cables together.

This is the adapter cable that goes from the car's antenna cable to the FM modulator socket.

Connect the wire out of the modulator into the adapter cable that clips into the back of the head unit.

2nd antenna adapter cable. The wire from the FM modulator box plugs into this cable, and then the adapter clips into the back of the radio head unit.

Once the FM modulator is connected to the car's antenna and head unit, I packed the modulator box in behind the dash under the seat heater switches.

Next, we wire the power harness for the XM receiver box.

I rate the difficulty of this step as easy. First, you need to get some power to the XM receiver. The wiring harness has 3 wires.

Black = Ground (DUH), Red/Yellow is switched power (comes on with the key), and Yellow is battery power (always on).

As I noted earlier in this process, I am using the trailer hitch wiring harness in the spare tire well to get the power for this install. Use of this harness requires that you install a 25AMP fuse in the first slot of the fuse panel. Check your car in case it is different than mine. By installing this fuse, the Red wire in the trailer harness will have constant 12V from the battery. The purple wire in the trailer harness is switched 12V. Perfect for this installation! I simply cut the wires from the harness since I do not tow a trailer, then used Tap-In Squeeze connectors to provide power to the XM receiver harness. For ground, I simply drilled a pilot hole in the rear deck near the XM receive mounting area.

XM switched power and battery power leads connected.

Use a multi meter to verify that you have the battery power and switched power connected correctly and you're getting a minimum of 12V at each wire.

Now on to the best part. Connect the wiring harness, control/display unit cable, FM modulator wire, and antenna wire to the XM receiver.

Turn the ignition to the on position. The XM control/display unit should come on and should automatically tune to channel 1. This is the XM test/demo channel. Turn on the radio head unit and tune the radio to 88.9. The default FM channel for the XM Commander is 88.7, but the Saab head unit will not tune to that channel. If the XM Commander screen came on, then you know you have power. Press and hold the Menu/Display button on the control/display unit, or the remote. This will bring up the XM Commander's settings menu. The first option is FM Frequency. Press the large XM button to select this option and then choose the FM frequency you want to use for XM by using the remote's up and down buttons or the jog dial on the control/display unit.

NOTE: When the XM Commander is on, the FM modulator will cause most other FM radio stations to have static or not tune in at all. To pick up your local stations, turn the XM Commander off.

This is typical screen information from channel 1.

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